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Enter Chinatown at Bush and Grant Streets, through the imposing
Dragon Gate, a gift to San Francisco from the Republic of China in
1969. The characters above the gate proclaim "Everything in the
world is in just proportions." Home to one of North America's
largest Chinese communities, Chinatown is a bustling 18 square
blocks centered along Grant and Stockton from Bush to Columbus. The
streets are lined with food markets, herb shops, temples,
restaurants, and stores offering a variety of colorful merchandise.
It's easy to give in to the urge to just shuffle down Grant Avenue,
buy a few souvenirs or t-shirts and miss the real San Francisco
Chinatown. Grant Avenue is the more tourist-oriented street in
Chinatown, particularly on the end nearest Union Square and the
Chinatown Gate.
The Chinatown you see today was built after San Francisco's 1906
earthquake and its architecture is an odd mix of Edwardian
fundamentals and Chinese details. Beyond the gate you will see the
Dragon Lights, the ornate street lights that were added in 1925 as
Chinatown began to be a serious tourist attraction. Landmarks
include St. Mary's Church, at Grant & California. St. Mary's Church
blends Chinese heritage with the Gold Rush. The granite foundation
came from China and the bricks were brought with gold seekers.
Portsmouth Square, at Kearny & Washington Streets, made history in
1848 when Sam Brannan announced there he'd found gold at Sutter's
Mill.
Down the street is Portsmouth Square, on Kearny Street between
Clay and Washington (one block down Clay off Grant). where local
family gather, old men play elephant chess, and women watch children
play. Ten Ren Tea Shop, 949 Grant Avenue, provides a daunting task
to picking a Chinese tea - there are so many kinds and different
brands and grades one can become intimidated by the choices. Ten Ren
offers samples and sometimes suggestions if it isn't too busy.
Stockton Street is home to many Chinese markets and stores. Don't be
intimidated by the crowds of shoppers that are usually gathered
around the shops, inspecting and selecting the fruits, vegetable,
and other items piled up on display. Stroll in, wander around, and
enjoy the exotic sights, sounds, and scents.
Between Grant and Stockton, off the major cross streets, are the
Chinatown alleys. Don't miss them, they are the essence of
Chinatown. Chinese lore says evil travels in straight lines. Maybe
that's why there are so many alleys and small cross streets in
Chinatown. The most interesting are Waverly Place and Ross Alley,
both parallel to Grant, between Grant and Stockton. Waverly Place
has been called the street of the painted balconies. It runs between
Sacramento and Washington. It offers excellent photo opportunities.
Amy Tan's fans may remember the name Waverly from "Joy Luck Club,"
and Dashiell Hammett's "Dead Yellow Women" is set in Waverly Place.
Ross Alley runs between Washington and Jackson. Ross Alley has been
the backdrop for a number of major movies including "Indiana Jones
and the Temple of Doom," "Karate Kid II," and "Big Trouble in Little
China." The Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory, located at 56 Ross
Alley is probably not what you might expect of a factory. The
machines are fascinating but people complain of rudeness. Buy a
souvenir and consider it for the entertainment value.
Take note of the building numbers.The fortune cookie factory is at
56 Ross, next door is 24 Ross, a small garment factory and the other
side of it is 32 Ross, a one chair barber shop and part time radio
repair shop. The early Chinese thought some numbers are lucky and
others aren't. If they didn't like their address, they just changed
it. Pity the mail delivery person!
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