This historic section of Upper Market Street, marked with rainbow flags, is recognized as the center of San Francisco’s gay and lesbian community, but is welcoming to all residents and visitors. Castro Street is lined with specialty stores interspersed with colorful Victorians, restaurants, and pubs. Harvey Milk Plaza, at Market & Castro, is named after San Francisco’s first openly gay supervisor. The Castro Theater, 429 Castro Street, is a great old movie palace that screens classic and art films.

Enter Chinatown at Bush and Grant Streets, through the imposing Dragon Gate,a gift to San Francisco from the Republic of China in 1969. The characters above the gate proclaim ³Everything in the world is in just proportions.²Home to one of North America¹s largest Chinese communities, Chinatown is a bustling 18 square blocks centered along Grant and Stockton from Bush to Columbus. The streets are lined with food markets, herb shops, temples, restaurants, and stores offering a variety of colorful merchandise. It's easy to give in to the urge to just shuffle down Grant Avenue, buy a few souvenirs or t-shirts and miss the real San Francisco Chinatown. Grant Avenue is the more tourist-oriented street in Chinatown, particularly on the end nearest Union Square and the Chinatown Gate. The Chinatown you see today was built after San Francisco's 1906 earthquake and its architecture is an odd mix of Edwardian fundamentals and Chinese details. Beyond the gate you will see the Dragon Lights, the ornate street lights that were added in 1925 as Chinatown began to be a serious tourist attraction. Landmarks include St. Mary's Church, at Grant & California. St. Mary¹s Church blends Chinese heritage with the Gold Rush. The granite foundation came from China and the bricks were brought with gold seekers. Portsmouth Square, at Kearny & Washington Streets, made history in 1848 when Sam Brannan announced there he¹d found gold at Sutter¹s Mill. Down the street is Portsmouth Square, on Kearny Street between Clay and Washington (one block down Clay off Grant). where local family gather, old men play elephant chess, and women watch children play. Ten Ren Tea Shop, 949 Grant Avenue, provides a daunting task to picking a Chinese tea - there are so many kinds and different brands and grades one can become intimidated by the choices. Ten Ren offers samples and sometimes suggestions if it isn¹t too busy. Stockton Street is home to many Chinese markets and stores. Don¹t be intimidated by the crowds of shoppers that are usually gathered around the shops, inspecting and selecting the fruits, vegetable, and other items piled up on display. Stroll in, wander around, and enjoy the exotic sights, sounds, and scents. Between Grant and Stockton, off the major cross streets, are the Chinatown alleys. Don't miss them, they are the essence of Chinatown. Chinese lore says evil travels in straight lines. Maybe that's why there are so many alleys and small cross streets in Chinatown. The most interesting are Waverly Place and Ross Alley, both parallel to Grant, between Grant and Stockton. Waverly Place has been called the street of the painted balconies. It runs between Sacramento and Washington. It offers excellent photo opportunities. Amy Tan's fans may remember the name Waverly from "Joy Luck Club," and Dashiell Hammett's "Dead Yellow Women" is set in Waverly Place. Ross Alley runs between Washington and Jackson. Ross Alley has been the backdrop for a number of major movies including ³Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom,² ³Karate Kid II,² and ³Big Trouble in Little China.² The Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory, located at 56 Ross Alley is probably not what you might expect of a factory. The machines are fascinating but people complain of rudeness. Buy a souvenir and consider it for the entertainment value. Take note of the building numbers.The fortune cookie factory is at 56 Ross, next door is 24 Ross, a small garment factory and the other side of it is 32 Ross, a one chair barber shop and part time radio repair shop. The early Chinese thought some numbers are lucky and others aren't. If they didn't like their address, they just changed it. Pity the mail delivery person!

The Embarcadero Waterfront area at the northeast edge of the city features a palm tree lined bayside promenade with views of the Bay Bridge. Walk across the Embar-cadero to the Ferry Building, pictured, a popular destination with eateries and artisan food shops. Behind are ferry terminals that give access to numerous destinations around the Bay. The Farmers’ Market is held in front of the Ferry Building Tuesday 10am-2pm, Thursday 4-8pm, Saturday 8am-2pm, and Sunday 10am-2pm. The F Line historic trolley cars run along the Embarcadero from Market Street & Castro to Fisherman’s Wharf.